Where To Drink With The Locals: 17 Bars In Budapest

People, rather than interior designers give soul to these unfussy Budapest bars – expect plenty of locals, wallet-friendly drinks, and an increasingly lively atmosphere as the night progresses.

#1 Kisüzem

Those looking to passionately debate Hungarian political history will find themselves at home in this bar in the heart of Budapest's Jewish Quarter by Klauzál tér. The quiet, chess-playing, tea-sipping crowd in the afternoons is deceiving – come night-time and Kisüzem fills to capacity so that earning a place at the bar can be a challenge. Despite being in a tourist-heavy area, local artists, left-wing intellectuals, and international students comprise the regular customers because prices have remained wallet-friendly. Hungarian wines and beers are available, as well as fancy rums from the top shelf.

#2 Manyi - Kulturális Műhely

Good things are happening on the Buda side, just across the Margaret Bridge in District 2. Thanks to a systematic urban renewal program aimed at reducing car traffic and attracting pedestrians, streets are starting to become lively and lined with small businesses. There’s a long way to go, but one can already see signs of life along Margit körút, the historic heart of the neighborhood which had long been a noisy, gray, and car-polluted boulevard.

Manyi, which opened in 2020, is a labyrinthine drinking joint and concert venue inside a run-down pre-war building along Margit körút. Manyi resembles the ruin bars of Budapest's Jewish Quarter, but so far it has managed to retain a free-spirited local crowd in part thanks to being on the Buda side, away from all the stag party tourists. All I ask is that you don’t ruin it, pun intended.

#3 Élesztő

Élesztő is a spacious craft beer bar in Budapest's District 9, serving a rotating set of 20 local beers on tap, ranging from light crowd-pleasers to sour IPAs. The former glass production plant is an ideal venue for a craft beer bar: the century-old brick walls and the exposed fermentation tanks exude a sense of artisanship and give the (false) impression that an actual brewery is on the premises. Butcher's Kitchen, a food stall inside the courtyard, serves excellent pastrami and pulled pork sandwiches to help slow the rise in blood alcohol levels. Reasonable price point. (Trafó, next door, is Budapest's leading contemporary arts center with regular dance, music, and English-language theater performances.)

#4 Pótkulcs Budapest

Trust me, the address is accurate – persist in your search and thou shall be rewarded. Pótkulcs is an alternative bar hidden inside a former engineering workshop in Budapest's District 6; once you find the nondescript entrance, proceed through the leafy patio. Attached to the bar area stands a cavernous performance hall where they host regular live music concerts with a folk-heavy lineup. During the warmer months, the action shifts to the outdoors. Word to the wise: this is your chance to try Kőbányai on draft! Solid dishes to match.

#5 Zsír (Fővárosi Kulipintyó)

For a long time, Zsír, Fővárosi Kulipintyó (called Hordó then) was the kind of below-ground watering hole that abound in Budapest’s working class neighborhoods. The outer District 8 in this case. But in 2022, a new owner transformed this place into a thriving hub of musically inclined local alternatives while retaining the old-school interior. Every night of the week, a band performs live music to a high-energy audience: Mondays, Fridays, and Saturdays often feature folk music.

Draft beers, zsíroskenyér – open-faced sandwiches spread with pork lard and sprinkled with onions and paprika – and even a few craft ales are also served. An exemplary case of carrying the native spirit to the present day!

#6 Cafe Zsivago

Zsivágó is an adorable café and bar hidden on a side street in District 6, under the radar of most people even though it is just a short block from the high-end boutiques of Andrássy Avenue. The snug interior features antique furnishings, maroon-and-white striped wallpapers, dense carpeting, and small, round tables. In the afternoons, freelancers camp out with their laptops; come evening, a local crowd shows up and spirited chatter fills the high-ceilinged room. Plenty of tucked-away corners both on the ground floor and upstairs make Zsivágó an ideal date spot.

#7 Kiadó Kocsma

Kiadó is a cozy, unfussy bar nestled in a quiet side street off Andrássy Avenue. Patrons comprise local alternatives, office workers, and international grad students, but some wandering tourists with a nose for hidden treasures also stumble in from Andrássy. Matters of the heart are best addressed in the low-lit nooks upstairs, led up to by a curving staircase decorated with thick wooden balustrades. Compared with similarly minded unpretentious bars in the area, such as Kisüzem and Fekete Kutya, Kiadó is somewhat quieter and hence ideal also for dates or meetings.

#8 Három Holló

Budapest has excellent specialty coffee shops but its historical coffeehouses have vanished or become pricey tourist attractions to which locals rarely go. But I’m here to report that Három Holló, which opened in 2017, has begun to fill this gaping void and so appeared marble-topped tables, Thonet chairs, multilingual papers and magazines under the soaring ceiling. It didn’t hurt that the cafe’s enormous windows overlook downtown’s Elizabeth Bridge, the Gellért Hill, and the neighboring Gothic cathedral.

Today, Három Holló is a lively hub for culturally minded locals of all ages. The affordable menu features pretzels, toasted sandwiches, Frankfurters, vegetarian lunch specials, and Kaiserschmarrn shredded pancakes. Every evening, there’s a music concert or a book event in the below-ground auditorium. As all self-respecting coffeehouses, Három Holló is open until midnight every day of the week.

#9 Jedermann Café

Over the years, I have spent many a Saturday morning at Jedermann: relaxing, reading, absorbing the atmosphere. This all-inviting cafe along Ráday utca in District 9 was launched in 2010 by the legendary restaurateur, Hans van Vliet, a Dutchman who had made Budapest his home. On any day, the small tables might be filled with senior citizens fiercely debating Hungarian politics, students gossiping over a cup of coffee, and a theater director mapping out projects with the staff.

Jazz is the central theme: jazz posters drape the walls, jazz is playing in the background, and jazz is performed live on Friday and Saturday evenings (booking via email: [email protected]; the place fills up quickly). The dishes, vaguely Hungarian, are solid and well-priced and served from morning until midnight, seven days a week. A true-to-Budapest experience, this one!

#10 Hintaló Iszoda

Hintaló is a snug bar located a bit outside the city center in Budapest's District 8. Apart from the low-lit, cozy interior lined with nooks and crannies – the upstairs is ideal for date nights – you are here for classic cocktails, craft beers, and amaros. Hintaló often fills up with a mixed crowd of hip international students and locals. Opening hours are a bit inconsistent, check before you go.

#11 Fekete Kutya

If you would like to escape the rowdy bachelor-party tourists in Budapest's Jewish Quarter but stay within the neighborhood, make your way to Fekete Kutya. Despite its location alarmingly near Kazinczy utca, Fekete Kutya flies under the radar of most people and remains an unfussy bar mainly frequented by local alternatives. During the warmer months, people spill out to the outdoor tables under the arcaded alley. Also here: excellent Czech craft beers on draft.

#12 Ibolya Espresso

Opened in 1968, Ibolya Espresso is deeply anchored in Budapest's collective memory as currently the third generation of twentysomethings patronize this unpretentious drinking joint located right in the city center. The interior is a throwback to the Communist era (1947-1989), featuring socialist modern design pieces – a local, cheaper variant of mid-century modern. Think hemispherical light fixtures made from orange plexiglass and alluringly curvilinear chairs topped with red faux leather upholstery.

Despite the downtown location, most patrons are local college students who might be here for various reasons: skipping class, taking a study break from the university library across the street, first date (lovebirds usually occupy the secluded tables upstairs), a soccer game projected on the big screen. Or to wolf down an outsized toasted ham and cheese sandwich blanketed in ketchup before calling it a night. Please take note of Ibolya's timeless typography above the entry door.

#13 Cintányéros

Cintányéros isn’t so much a posh wine bar as an updated neighborhood wine tavern – the type of place where local residents gather for banter and wallet-friendly house wine. The place is situated in the once-seedy outer District 8, an area currently undergoing large-scale real estate development perfectly symbolized by Nokia’s and IBM's gleaming headquarters towering over the neighborhood. Upstairs, there are small tables and snug corners; no wonder that lovebirds occupy many of them. The wine list also features a few well-known local labels. Notably excellent food to go pair: toasted sandwiches, grilled sausage with pickled cabbage, filled molnárka roll!

#14 Gravity Brewing

Gravity is a Budapest craft beer bar where the brewery itself is located on the premises. This means the taproom, which is inside the brick-walled basement of a pre-war building in District 9, abuts the production plant fitted with steel tanks, hoses, and electric dashboards (there's a see-through door). The beers span approachable New England IPAs, rye beers, and hefty imperial stouts with double-digit alcohol levels. Twelve beers on tap, of which a couple usually come from other Hungarian producers, such as the hops-infused cider made by Budaprés. Gravity Brewing is a project of American native Greg Kieckhefer and the price points are friendlier than at comparable craft beer bars.

#15 Grinzingi Borozó

Grinzingi is a neighborhood watering hole located in an unlikely place: the heart of Budapest's city center. Little has changed here since the 1983 opening – the rustic wooden furnishings evoke the atmosphere of the bar's namesake Viennese suburb, Grinzing, known for its folksy wine taverns. Fast forward forty years, some of the early patrons still pay repeated visits, as do plenty of college students from the nearby universities. I usually pair my fröccs (two parts wine, one part sparkling water) with a side of meatball (fasírt) or zsíroskenyér, the latter a slice of bread slathered with lard and drizzled with salt, paprika, and red onions. A true-to-Budapest experience, this one!

#16 Lámpás

Lámpás is a lively below-ground bar in Budapest best known for its daily live music performances (mostly rock, jazz, and blues). Oddly, this gritty, and by no means mainstream bar is opposite Gozsdu Udvar, the tourist-heavy passage teeming with pricey restaurants and wine bars a little gem in the heart of it all. If things get too heated and cramped in the concert room, look for a table in the labyrinthine rear section which better caters to conversations. Note that Lámpás scales back its operation during the summer months.

#17 Hunnia Bisztró

Hunnia is an old-school, below-ground music bar best known for its Friday and Saturday night concerts, when A and B-level Hungarian bands take over the tiny stage for a high-energy show. Many who perform here were part of Budapest's alternative music scene in the 1970s and 1980s, most famously Mihály Víg and his Balaton group. Some are still going strong, as are their graying but desperately loyal fans. A deeply local experience right in the city center.

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