Grinzingi is a neighborhood watering hole located in an unlikely place: the heart of Budapest's city center. Little has changed here since the 1983 opening – the rustic wooden furnishings evoke the atmosphere of the bar's namesake Viennese suburb, Grinzing, known for its folksy wine taverns. Fast forward forty years, some of the early patrons still pay repeated visits, as do plenty of college students from the nearby universities. I usually pair my fröccs (two parts wine, one part sparkling water) with a side of meatball (fasírt) or zsíroskenyér, the latter a slice of bread slathered with lard and drizzled with salt, paprika, and red onions. A true-to-Budapest experience, this one!

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