Head to Élesztő if you're curious about Hungarian craft beers and what Budapest looks like a bit outside the city center. From a total of two hundred Hungarian craft beers, Élesztő serves a rotating set of 25 on tap, including everything from light crowd-pleasers to sour IPAs.

The former glass manufacturing plant that Élesztő occupies is a perfect spot for a craft beer bar: the century-old brick walls and exposed fermentation tanks exude a sense of artisanship and give the (false) impression that an actual brewery is on the premises. The spacious courtyard patio lined with communal tables is ideal for larger groups. Butcher's Kitchen, a food stall inside the courtyard, serves excellent pastrami (€7) and pulled pork (€6) sandwiches to help slow down the rise in your blood alcohol level. Both places are cash only!

Trafó, the building next to Élesztő toward the street corner, is Budapest's leading contemporary arts center with regular dance, music, and English-language theater performances.

We visit all places incognito, pay for our own meals and drinks, and write independent reviews.