7 of My Favorite Bakeries in Budapest

For every handmade sourdough loaf and pillowy chocolate pastry, there are dozens of dreadful alternatives at Budapest's bland bakery chains and supermarkets. But a small group of bakers, many of them recently returned from abroad, are changing the lay of the land, be it a local favorite such as the cottage cheese-filled túrós batyu or a cardamom bun. Unfortunately, demand currently far exceeds supply and many of these new-wave bakeries get away with predatory pricing.

#1 Artizán Bakery

Specializing in sourdough breads and morning pastries, Artizán is one of the leading craft bakeries in Budapest. Under the helm of Gergő Fekete, who honed his skills across Western Europe, Artizán in 2015 introduced a new standard of excellence in a city where dreary bakery chains and bland croissants are still the norm.

Artizán has one foot in Hungarian traditions, the other in the present day. This means they make the local classics such as pogácsa (sconelike snacks), kakaós csiga (chocolate rolls), Buchteln, which are yeast buns layered with túró and plum jam, and long-fermented sourdough breads. And you can also satisfy any cravings for cardamom buns, sweet and savory croissants, and all sorts of home-designed concoctions whose ingredients follow the change of seasons.

Fans of architecture: across the street from Artizán stands Hungary’s seminal Art Nouveau building, the Postatakarékpénztár, designed by Ödön Lechner in 1900-1901.

#2 Arán Bakery

Arán, which means "bread" in Old Irish, is a wildly popular craft bakery in Budapest's Jewish Quarter run by Kinga and Attila Pécsi. The couple spent a decade living in Ireland and it was there that Kinga mastered her baking skills. Arán lives up to its moniker: the whole wheat, rye, and white breads are all wonderful, imparting the slightly sour taste of long-fermented sourdough. On Fridays, they also make kalács, a sweet roll similar to a challah.

Bread is the specialty here, but the morning pastries are also good, especially the chorizo and jalapeno-stuffed croissant and the seasonal stuffed pastries. Despite numerous requests that I have launched, Arán unfortunately doesn't make traditional Hungarian classics such as túrós batyu (cottage-cheese bun) and kakaós csiga (chocolate roll).

#3 Butter Brothers

Opened in 2012, Butter Brothers has been putting out sourdough breads and expertly made croissants for longer than most of Budapest's specialty bakeries. Today, you can still get a tasty whole wheat loaf and a delicious kakaós csiga (chocolate roll) here with specialty coffee. Butter Brothers is located on an uneventful side street in Budapest's District 9, which means that customers consist of local residents and students from the nearby Corvinus University. A few tables are available for lingering.

#4 Pékműhely Bartók

Pékműhely's motto – "all you need for a good bread is excellent flour, water, salt, sourdough, and a pinch of love" – encapsulates the candid spirit of this unpretentious bakery along Bartók Béla Boulevard on the Buda side (they have two additional locations). Unlike other craft bakeries with on-trend minimalist design, here the focus is purely on the treasures of the oven, such as the whole wheat sourdough bread with its crunchy crust and tender, air pocket-filled inside. But best of all are the morning pastries; I know people who journey from the other side of the city for the kakaós csiga (chocolate roll) and other treats such as the túró (cottage cheese), poppy seeds, and cherry filled papucs.

#5 Három Tarka Macska Bakery

Három Tarka Macska is a fashionable bakery in the heart of Újlipótváros, a well-off residential area north of the Parliament building. Step inside, and a paradise of aromatic and still-steaming sourdough, whole wheat, and rye breads, brioches, and rolls in all shapes and sizes accost you. The must-try standout is the túrós batyu (a sweet-tart cottage cheese-filled laminated pastry), which might be the best in all of Budapest.

While mainly a takeout bakery, omelets and freshly made sandwiches are also available for a sit-down meal. Customers are a cross-section of the local residents, comprising snazzy Millennials, families with young children, and moneyed senior citizens with purebred dogs by their sides.

#6 Villa Bagatelle

One will need to venture out to the hilly District 12, on the Buda side, in order to experience this upscale, see-and-be-seen breakfast restaurant where the city's moneyed elites wind down. Located inside a wonderfully refurbished residential palace, Villa Bagatelle serves delicious egg-based dishes, frankfurters, breakfast pastries, with a separate to-go bakery on its ground floor. The place is reachable in fifteen minutes by public transport from downtown Pest; beware, you might be the sole guest arriving by bus judging by the line-up in the parking lot. Try to book in advance (by phone: +36 30 359 6295), opting for the outdoor terrace in the warmer months.

#7 Freyja - the croissant story

A hipster paradise, Freyja specializes in luxurious croissants and morning pastries that are excessively sized and liberally filled. They are among the best one will find in Budapest: rich and flaky and buttery (Freyja first earned a name for itself with its pistachio-cream croissant). It should go without saying that these bombastic croissants come with notably steep price tags. Also here: new-wave coffee and space to linger. One of the reasons that Freyja's somewhat offbeat location attracts a crowd is because many international students from the nearby University of Veterinary Medicine live around here. Freyja has recently expanded its operations also to Vienna.

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