Photo: Daniel Vegel, Zoltan Tuba / CEU Budapest's diverse architecture spans from Roman ruins to award-winning contemporary buildings, with plenty in-between. We've assembled the below highlights with the help of several local architects. The buildings are grouped chronologically, and this map will help you find each one of them.

Heads up: Budapest has an excellent architecture center, Fuga, where myriad books about Hungarian and regional architecture are available also in English.

Roman ruins

In the 1st century AD, the Roman Empire expanded to the Danube River, which served as its eastern border. Aquincum, situated in the northern part of today's Budapest, became the capital of Lower Pannonia province and boasted a population of 40,000 people in its heyday. While Budapest's Roman ruins are smaller than ruins in some other places, there's no admission fee to see them, they're easily reachable from downtown by public transport, and they're usually deserted, so you can have these two-thousand-year-old remains all to yourself.

1 - The two best-preserved Roman ruins in Budapest

The Thermae Maiores with a concrete overpass above it. The Aquincum Military Amphitheater was a 13,000-capacity complex used for gladiator combats and chariot races, while Thermae Maiores ("Great Bath") was a sophisticated public bath complete with a steam room and a gym (bizarrely, today a concrete overpass runs above it). You can visit Thermae Maiores for free from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (it's closed on Mondays); the amphitheater is accessible at all times. They're about a 15-minute walk from one another. If you're curious to see more Roman ruins, visit to the nearby Aquincum Museum, too.


Medieval & Baroque

2 - The Castle Hill

The Castle Hill is split between the grand Buda Castle and the civilian quarters packed with modest, two- and three-story residential homes. The countless battles waged on this small area—most recently WWII— destroyed many of the original buildings, but the Baroque and in some cases modern facades stand on the medieval walls. The neighborhood's narrow, winding streets still exude a historic air.


3 - Király Baths (1565?)

Built by Ottoman ruler Sokollu Mehmed pasha in the 16th century, this bath is one of the few remaining buildings from Budapest's century-and-a-half Ottoman occupation. The small openings on the dome admit little daylight, lending a mysterious atmosphere to the bathing hall beneath. Of Budapest's thermal baths, this one is popular among local residents, too.


Revival Architecture

In 1867, Budapest and Vienna became the joint capitals of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The subsequent 50 years marked Budapest's golden era when, inspired by Paris and Rome, much of the city's grand boulevards and eye-catching revival architecture sprung up.

4 - Andrássy Avenue & the Grand Blvd. (1876, 1896)

These two thoroughfares profoundly shaped the city's fabric in the 19th century. The stately Andrássy Avenue, often referred to as Budapest's Champs-Élysées, stretches from downtown to the City Park, while the Grand Boulevard is Budapest's main artery, connecting five neighborhoods.


5 - Hungarian State Opera House (1884)

Designed by Miklós Ybl, it's one of the most stunning opera houses in the world. The meticulously adorned building features statues of famous composers, including Ferenc Liszt, marble columns, and a giant bronze chandelier.


6 - House of Parliament (1902)

Photo: Trover This Gothic Revival extravaganza stretching along its Danube bank is Hungary's largest building. Its resemblance to the Westminster Palace is no coincidence—it was meant to enhance the building's legitimacy in the eyes of local residents. Parts of it are open to visitors, including the hall with the Holy Crown of Hungary and what used to be the Upper Chamber.


7 - St. Stephen's Basilica (1906)

Towering over Budapest, the St. Stephen's Basilica is another statement-building conveying the city's imperial ambitions. Its construction took more than half a century, outlasting two of the building's chief architects. Behind the calm limestone exterior hides a dimly lit central space, and the mummified right hand of St. Stephen, Hungary's first king. Note that the church's dome offers sweeping views of Budapest and is open to visitors.


Art Nouveau & Art Deco

Ödön Lechner created Hungary's unique brand of Art Nouveau. Some call him the “Gaudi of Hungary” as his buildings—featuring fluid shapes, brightly colored tilework, and motifs taken from folk art—loosely resemble those of the Spanish master. A student of Lechner, Béla Lajta designed Hungary's early art deco and modernist buildings, which appeared sooner in Budapest than in most European cities.

8 - Museum of Applied Arts (1896)

Lechner's over-the-top ornaments pay homage to Indian and Persian folk art because at the time some ethnographers falsely believed that Hungary shared a common history with these civilizations. For example, the plain white entry hall is modeled after the Taj Mahal. The building is currently undergoing a major renovation and can't be visited.


9 - Postal Savings Bank (1901)

Photo: Lakáskultúra Lechner's art nouveau masterpiece nestles on a quiet downtown street by Liberty Square. He decorated the facade with beehives, symbolizing industry and hard work. The building's colorful green and yellow roof tiles are best taken in from afar, for example, from the nearby corner of Bajcsy-Zsilinszky Road and Nagysándor József Street.


10 - Török Bank Building (1906)

Photo: budapestcity.org The enormous mosaic atop this steel-and-glass art nouveau building is a perfect counterpoint to the simple facade. The mosaic depicts Saint Mary, Hungary's patron saint, surrounded by prominent Hungarian revolutionary figures.


11 - Parisiana (1909)

Photo: Kitervezte.hu With a plain marble facade, Béla Lajta's Parisiana, originally built as a cabaret venue, shows early modernist and art deco characteristics (it was built in 1909!). Note the beautiful row of gilded cherubs perched atop the building, holding the stained glass lettering.


12 - István Széchenyi High School of Commerce (1912)

This massive red-brick building emerges unexpectedly on the narrow Vas Street in the new-cool District 8. The decorated aluminum entry door and limestone frame depict themes of commercial transportation and Hungarian folk art. The latin inscription above the door is a daily reminder to students: "It's not for school, but for life we learn."


Modernism

Several well-known figures of the Bauhaus school in Germany were Hungarians—including Marcel Breuer and László Moholy-Nagy, although they both later migrated to the United States—which meant that modernist architecture quickly spread in Hungary, too. In the '30s and '40s, modernism was a form of protest against the Baroque Revival style favored by the state, which many people, especially middle-class, Jewish residents, viewed as politically and socially outdated.

13 - Dunapark Apartment (1936)

Photo: 24.hu The highest concentration of modernist buildings are on Pozsonyi Road in Újlipótváros. The most spectacular is located at #38: the limestone-clad facade hides a staircase complete with marble finishes and custom blue-rubber floors. For the best experience, wait for a chance to get a sneak peek.


14 - Napraforgó Street Housing Development (1931)

This row of 22 buildings in a Buda suburb was the result of an unusually progressive government decree in the 1930s that commissioned leading architects to build affordable housing in the modern style of the day. The result is a leefy street lined with charming single-family homes, each one a slightly different take on the same theme.


15 - Madách Houses (1938)

This group of 11 clinker-brick buildings separate the historic Jewish Quarter from downtown. The barely perceptible geometric patterns on the otherwise unadorned facade lend the buildings an understated grace. The sweeping arch was supposed to be the grand entry of a boulevard running all the way to the City Park, but its construction was halted during World War II and never continued.


Communist-Era

Socialist realism was a state-imposed art form in Hungary in the first half of the 1950s. In architecture, it combined classical elements with communist ideology—imagine a columned entrance decorated with a relief showing joyful laborers. Socialist realism was painfully out-of-date at a time when sleek modern architecture reigned supreme in the Western world. By the end of the '50s, it ran its course, and architects were allowed to return to modernist designs, but because of capital constraints and limited access to construction materials, most buildings from the '60s and especially the '70s don't stand the test of time.

16 - Former Communist Party HQ, District 2 (1952-53)

The unusually long and royal staircase leading up to the party's local headquarters, sitting perched atop a park, was meant to project the authority of communism. Bizarrely—but in line with the socialist-realist dogma—a colonnade of Doric columns decorate the facade (remember, this is the 1950s!). Before the fall of the regime, a five-pointed star topped the building.


17 - Körszálló - Hotel Budapest (1967)

Photo: indafoto.hu Contrary to popular opinion, Hungarian architects designed many tastefully modern buildings during communism, mainly up to the 1960s (state censorship of architecture wasn't as strict as in other fields like fine arts). One of the best examples is the 64 m (210 ft) tall circular hotel towering over the Buda hills. Even if you aren't a guest of the hotel, you can try asking the receptionists to let you up to the top floor, which offers sweeping views.


18 - Prefab Residential High-Rises (1960-70s)

In the '60s and ‘70s, the city built tens of thousands of residential apartments made of precast concrete slabs to address Budapest’s critical housing shortage. These towering blocks were cheap and quick to construct, and also came with district heating and hot running water, amenities previously unavailable to many of its residents. Today, however, these gray, lifeless boxes, which account for almost 30 percent of Budapest's apartment stock, are a blight on their neighborhoods.


Post-modernism

Postmodernism emerged relatively late in Hungary—in the 1980s—because the communist leadership viewed it as a harmful aesthetic that originated in the "declining West." Its leading architect in Budapest was József Finta, whose buildings have fundamentally shaped Budapest’s contemporary skyline.

19 - "Makovecz House" (1993)

This four-story extension atop a 1867 Renaissance Revival building is one of the few Budapest works of legendary Hungarian architect, Imre Makovecz. Vertically repeating blank pediments are flanked by two curved towers dotted with Gothic-arched windows that are split by light-blue columns. Enough said. Notwithstanding the spectacle—it's impossible not to stop and try to make sense of it—the building feels more self-serving than witty or sensitive to its surrounding.


20 - Police Headquarters (1997)

Photo: fintastudio.hu Finta's best work is the Police Headquarters (colloquially the “Cops' Palace”), a beautifully proportioned, 58,000 sqm building that looks like a high-tech battleship, or a sphynx fixing its vigilant gaze toward the city center. In addition to playful reflections, it also features subtle hat-tips to Pritzker-winning architect, I. M. Pei.


21 - Lehet Market (2002)

Photo: blog.atlatszo.hu Love it or hate it, you will likely get a kick out of this intentionally kitsch Budapest market hall. The boat-shaped building is packed with harsh colors and overblown historical references like the bright-yellow entablature. If you decide to visit, go on a Saturday morning when the market is liveliest.


Contemporary

Large-scale contemporary buildings in Budapest are fewer than you might expect. This is because of the lack of deep-pocketed developers, and also because many downtown buildings are under landmark protection, so architects need to walk a fine line between preserving the old, be it the fabric of a street or the facade of a building, and creating something truly contemporary.

22 - Müpa Budapest (2005)

Photo: Müpa Budapest This enormous cultural building along the Danube's bank is the most important work of architecture in Budapest so far in the 21st century. The warm limestone exterior encloses oversized window panes that permit plenty of light. Inside, note the gracious transition of materials: from wood to metal and glass and stone. The building is home to the Ludwig Museum of Contemporary Art, and also the National Concert Hall, known for its high-quality acoustics.


23 - Central European University Building (2016)

Photo: Daniel Vegel, Zoltan Tuba / CEU The central building of the prestigious Central European University, designed by O'Donnell + Tuomey, seamlessly blends old and new—the indented facade is distinctly modern, but it fits into the otherwise 1820s street view. The inside, which is open for all to see, boasts expensive-but-understated details, unexpected color combinations, and contrasting materials.


24 - CET Building (2011)

The CET Building is a mixed-use cultural and commercial space consisting of a set of restored warehouses and a whale-shaped, high-tech structure inserted in-between them. It's one of the few buildings with direct access to the Danube and lined with riverfront bars like Esetleg and Jonas Craft Beer House.


25 - M4 Subway Stations (2014)

Photo: ArchDaily The stations of metro line #4 are among the best works of contemporary Hungarian architecture. These disability-inclusive platforms are wildly different from Budapest’s otherwise outdated subway stops (at the Kálvin Square station you can compare old and new). The Fővám Square and Szent Gellért Square stations won the highly prestigious Architizer A+ Award in 2014.


Reviewed by Sándor Sólymos, Department Head of Fine Arts, at the Hungarian University of Fine Arts.

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