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As in other cities, Budapest's Castle Hill today is a unique blend of medieval Old City charm and mass tourism. This guide will help you unearth some of its less-trodden paths and provide recommendations for food and drinks along the way, although the area is more known for its sweeping views and historic air than for memorable restaurants.
Life in Buda began in the 13th century, after Tatars and Mongols decimated the flat Pest side, and the survivors began to appreciate the strategic benefits of a hilltop. The Castle Hill today bears marks of countless battles that took place here over the centuries. The most recent one was a month-long, bloody siege between the Soviet/Romanian and German/Hungarian armies during WWII, which reduced parts of it to rubble—that's why there are so many modern buildings interspersed between the medieval and Baroque houses.
During communism, the state tried to rebuild the area, but it was never completed due to capital constraints and limited access to high-quality building materials. For example, they fitted the Buda Castle—currently home to the Hungarian National Gallery—with cheap, modern furniture, lending a bizarre interior to these once stately halls. Today, partially funded by the EU, many of the buildings that were destroyed in WWII are springing back to life in their original forms. In fact, the neighborhood is regaining some of its political weight as government ministries, including the Prime Minister's Office and the Ministry of Finance, are moving back here from Pest.
The Castle Hill consists of two parts, split more or less by Dísz Square: the Buda Castle houses museums and government buildings today, whereas the residential section occupies Úri, Országház, Fortuna, and Táncsics Mihály Streets. Most locals are senior citizens who’ve lived here all their lives. Younger people tend to flock to less touristed parts of town, where prices are lower and the nightlife more active—the strict landmark regulations make it difficult for new places to open, meaning that as night falls and tourists retire, the Castle Hill's streets become eerily empty.
Try to stock up on caffeine and arrive with a full stomach to not have to rely on overpriced vendors. If you’re fine with walking, the best way to reach the Castle Hill from Pest is by crossing the Chain Bridge, and then climbing Király lépcső, the trail setting off on the right-hand side of the Buda Castle Tunnel. Take a sharp left at the first chance for a postcard panorama of Pest from the terrace perched atop the tunnel. (Taking the funicular is also a good option, but the ticket line can be painfully long.)
From here, zigzag your way up to the enormous Buda Castle. The best photo ops are from the two narrow cantilevered structures hanging over the city walls, beyond the equestrian statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy outside the Hungarian National Gallery (he was the General of the Imperial Army that defeated the invading Ottomans in 1686). Since Hungary no longer has a royal family, the Hungarian National Gallery occupies the river-facing side of the Buda Castle. Their expansive collection features Hungarian artworks from the country's beginnings to the present day, including everything from Gothic wood carvings to Hungarian paintings and drawings by the likes of József Rippl-Rónay, Tivadar Csontváry Kosztka, and Lajos Vajda.
From the cantilevered viewing point, take the stairs down through the medieval-looking garden—few people come all the way out here, so it can feel like roaming around your own oversized private garden. Then climb the steep stairs on the other end to arrive at the entrance of the Budapest History Museum. It showcases the remains of the original Gothic castle that stood here the 14th century, and also provides a history of area and the city itself on the upper floors.
Exit the museum toward the Lion Courtyard, which hides the National Széchényi Library, the country’s largest, with a collection of over two million Hungarian books and illustrated medieval codices. As you head to Dísz Square, first you will see some of the recently resurrected buildings in their full splendor on your left, then the Office of the President and the Prime Minister's Office on your right on Szent György Square. Instead of the busy Tárnok Street, take the scenic and quieter Tóth Árpád Promenade from Dísz Square, which overlooks the Buda hills. It’s here that you’re most likely to catch a glimpse of long-time Castle Hill residents. Then, turn on Szentháromság Street and head to the dramatic building of the Matthias Church.
You will pass the legendary Ruszwurm pastry shop, operating continuously since 1827, that counted Empress Sisi among its notable clients. The Biedermeier interior fittings will transport you to the early-19th century. The specialty of the house is the krémes, a popular custard cake in Central Europe, and the hot chocolate. Try to go in the morning (they open at 10 a.m.) for the shortest lines and broadest selections.
The oldest in the Castle Hill and the most famous in the country, the Gothic Matthias Church stands in a category of its own. It served as a mosque during the Ottoman occupation, a coronation church in the 19th century, and a horse stable for the Soviet Army during WWII. Thanks to a recent gut renovation, its limestone exterior and glazed ceramic tiles gleam from near and far.
Things normally get crowded at the Fisherman’s Bastion, but the views onto the Parliament building are worth a quick stop. Next door, the Hilton Budapest flaunts a mixed facade, showing the original Baroque walls on one side and modern glass and precast concrete panels on the other. Around the corner from here is Alabárdos, a long-standing fine dining restaurant inside a medieval building, and there's a Starbucks near the Fisherman’s Bastion to satisfy any caffeine cravings.
The tucked-away Táncsics Street is home to several homes that belonged to the nobility before communism, including the building at #7, today the Institute for Musicology. (The bronze crown atop the building indicates the family’s place within the aristocratic pecking order.) This street is also where the medieval Jewish Quarter once was. A small exhibit at #26 shows the remains of a Sephardic prayer room and headstones found in a nearby Jewish cemetery.
Táncsics Street terminates in the northern gate of the Castle Hill. Leave the area by weaving your way through Európa Liget to the right of the gate, where trees indigenous to European capitals were planted in 1972. Outside the Castle Hill, but within walking distance is Csalogány 26, a mid-to-high-end restaurant with excellent Hungarian dishes. A bit further is Bambi Eszpresszó, an affordable cafe and bar that dates back to the communist era. For trendier vibes, try Déryne Bistro on the other side of the Castle Hill, but within walking distance, or Dang Muoi Pho, a casual Vietnamese restaurant.
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