Stand Restaurant is the fine dining project of local celebrity chef-duo, Szabina Szulló and Tamás Széll, and follows the success of Stand25, their highly acclaimed casual restaurant inside the Hold Street Market. Here too, their success was almost immediate: accolades quickly poured in, and the restaurant won a Michelin star in 2019, less than a year after opening.
As with Costes and Onyx, Stand uses high-quality local ingredients, and offers some of the usual suspects of haute cusine, including foie gras and venison loin. But goulash and the local fish soup (halászlé), typical Hungarian peasant fare, also appear on the eight-course tasting menu. The fish soup is especially memorable: it arrives in a deeply flavorful, mildly pungent paprika-laced broth, studded with smoked carp enclosed in a tortellini-like pasta. The prettiest dish is the sterlet, a small species of sturgeon, delicately plated with fresh cucumbers, topped with fish roe, and drenched in a luscious clam sauce. You can see the meticulous prep work that goes into these elaborate plates by watching the see-through kitchen, where an army of cooks scuttle about.
The eight-course dinner tasting menu runs €110 per person (€170 with wine pairing), similar to comparable fine dining restaruants in the city. For lunch, three and four-course options are available (€40 / €55). The wine selections include bottles from all the major Hungarian wine regions, and more.
Overall, Stand offers an all-around reliable fine dining experience, with kind and informed service. Nevertheless, there's room to add more dishes that burst with flavor—like the goulash and the fish soup—and deservedly elicit oohs and aahs from diners.