5As in other big cities, natural wine bars have enveloped Budapest in recent years. The great question with such fashionable establishments is whether or not the hype morphs into self importance and pretension. Cabrio, a cozy, low-lit venue, has so far managed to remain on the right side of cool. Part of its charm is the location on Kamermayer Károly tér, a quiet square in the city center named after the first mayor of Budapest whose statue presides over the premises.
The wine list is pan-European, featuring also Hungary’s well-known natural wine producers such as Hummel, Dorka Homoky, and Péter Nagyváradi. It should go without saying that the food concept is – sigh! – small plates. But the dishes are notably delicious. Especially the grilled and sliced celery root drenched in a creamy walnut-infused sauce, and the tender trout filet topped with a drizzle of San Marzano tomatoes. Open Wednesday through Saturday.
To remain unbiased, I visit all places incognito and pay for my own meals and drinks. I rely in large part on readers to support my work. I'm grateful if you make a one-time payment (PayPal, Venmo, Revolut) or subscribe to my weekly newsletter in which I write about Budapest and Vienna.