Vienna is a city of wine: the only metropolis in the world with massive vineyards. The place to consume these wines are the Heurigers – unpretentious wine taverns run by the wineries and also serving food. Below, you'll find a few of my favorites, some down in the city, others high up on the hillside. The local specialty is the Gemischter Satz, a white blend made from different grapes that were grown and harvested together.
If the well-known Heurigers of Vienna’s District 19 in Grinzing and Nussdorf feel overly touristy, I suggest you head to Mauer on the other side of town. Here hides the charming Heuriger of Michael Edlmoser, a leading Viennese winemaker, serving excellent traditional Austrian foods and homemade wines for a lively crowd of neighborhood locals.
Edlmoser himself is among the servers that slalom through the crowd with tender pork belly slices, Liptauer and creamy egg spreads, or apple and cottage cheese strudels in hand. And of course wines. Start with his classic Wiener Gemischter Satz, then move on to the Rieslings, among the best in Austria. Be sure to check the opening hours – asg ’steckt – as they’re open for two-week intervals at a time.