Located a bit outside downtown near the City Park, Szaletly is a destination restaurant, one worth trekking out to. At least if you're curious to try traditional Hungarian dishes transformed with a deft hand by head-chef Dániel Bernát. The whole menu is a celebration of dishes people in Hungary are used to eating, but these beautiful plates made from top ingredients are hardly what appear on most people's dining tables at home.

There's of course goulash, but you can also try the local fish soup (halászlé), foie gras, fogas (pike-perch), Mangalica pork, schnitzel, and túrós palacsinta (túró-filled crepes). And also Stefánia vagdalt: a meatloaf named after Stéphanie, Crown Princess of Austria (1864-1945), who also bears the name of the elegant street where Szaletly is located. The service is excellent — not pushy but alert and knowledgeable, and there's a full wine list of local options. Mains are €15-20.

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