Although located a bit outside downtown, near the City Park, Szaletly is a so-called destination restaurant, one worth trekking out to. At least if you're curious to try traditional Hungarian dishes transformed with a deft hand by head-chef Dániel Bernát. The whole menu is a celebration of dishes people in Hungary are used to eating, but these beautiful plates made from local ingredients are hardly what appear on most people's dining tables at home.

There's of course goulash, and also the locals fish soup (halászlé), foie gras, fogas (pike-perch), Mangalica pork, schnitzel, and túrós palacsinta (túró-filled crepes). The reason the Stefánia vagdalt meatloaf appears on the menu is obvious: Stéphanie, Crown Princess of Austria, bears the name of both the dish and the elegant street where Szaletly is located. The service is excellent — not pushy but alert and knowledgeable, and there's a full wine list of local options. Mains are €12-18.

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