5Helmed by the Israeli chef Harel Zakaim, Goli is a buzzing Middle Eastern restaurant in Budapest’s downtown. The restaurant’s moniker pays respect to the Goldberger textile business that occupied the building before the Goldberger family was killed in the Holocaust in 1945 (the facade still bears their name).
As in New York or Tel Aviv, energetic Middle Eastern electronic music accompanies the dishes, most of which are quickly treated to the charcoal fire. The smoked watermelon “sashimi” in olive oil and the charred cauliflower are rightfully popular and there's a deceptively good labneh made from almond milk (Goli is dairy-free). My table’s favorites were the Moroccan “cigar” – tender hanger steak stuffed into in a burek – and the thin slices of ribs sitting in piquant tahini sauce. Also here: cocktails, Hungarian and Israeli wines, and an ethereal milk pudding called malabi. The place is small, advance booking recommended. €70 or so will buy a full meal for two with a drink.
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