Hegykapu Restaurant (location; +36 70 363 8046): Located at the entry point of the wine region, Hegykapu is the most visited restaurant in Somló and the only one not part of a winery or a hotel. The vibes are old-school and the dishes mediocre, but I’ve had tasty schnitzels here and an excellent Somlói galuska, which is a chocolate and rum-soaked sponge cake whose moniker has nothing to do with Somló. Portions are huge, the prices reasonable.
Somlói Borok Boltja (location; [email protected], +36 30 338 8993; open Thursday to Monday or by appointment): High up on the hillside and ringed by top vineyards, it would be hard to find a more scenic spot for an outdoor wine bar. This place often hums with activity, with many local winemakers socializing here. The person behind the operation is Éva Cartwright, a passionate supporter and advocate of the wine region. Dozens of local wines are available to taste and also to purchase, and there’s a spacious guest house on the upstairs level.
5 Ház Borbirtok (from €80; location; [email protected]; +36 20 523 5965): What used to be five wine storage buildings on the hillside have been converted into a group of snug guest houses, each with a view from its outdoor terrace. There’s also a modern sauna and a jacuzzi with panoramic vistas. I recommend that you opt in for their in-house dinner, which will likely exceed your expectations thanks to chef Martin Pacsai who cut his teeth in a fine dining Budapest restaurant.
Kolonics Guest House (from €55; location; [email protected]; +36 70 337 4551): The two guest houses of longtime local winemaker Károly Kolonics are encircled by his own vineyards and have more than a dozen perfectly satisfying rooms right in the heart of the wine region. If you come with a bigger group, you can ask for a goulash to be cooked for you in a cast iron cauldron over open fire.
Kreinbacher (from €110; location; [email protected]; +36 88 236 420): Kreinbacher winery’s fifteen hotel rooms and two suites offer the swankiest accommodation in Somló. If you’re looking to splurge, there’s also a pricey restaurant on the premises serving things like foie gras and Mangalitsa pork. All hotel guests get a complimentary guided tour around the winery and champagne facilities that ends with a taste.