7 Budapest Libraries to Work From

One of the underrated pleasures of life is working from a library: the communal pursuit of knowledge; the quiet without the solitude; the striking interiors. Budapest is especially well-supplied because in addition to national, municipal, and university libraries, most museums contain research libraries; all of them are open to anyone and everyone with a valid ID card, Hungarian or foreign (some libraries might close during the peak summer season).

Below, some of my favorites with nearby lunch recommendations.

1. Library of the Hungarian Parliament (location; Monday through Friday 9 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.): It sounds too good to be true: there’s a public library inside the Hungarian Parliament Building. Yes, that giant Gothic Revival complex stretched along its Danube bank. One has to enter through the side by the Andrássy statue and part of the experience is proceeding through the arcaded pathway lined with kings and queens. To your right: Habsburg Maria Theresa cast in stone; to your left: the Danube’s voluminous gray-blue.

The library flaunts an enormously high ceiling and it is decked out in elaborate Gothic details with river-facing views. It’s easy to lose focus here. Patrons are usually heavy on foreign students; I am not sure why more Hungarians don’t take advantage of such a treasure. I do, however, regularly spot Ignác Romsics, the famous historian, laboring away. At 74, he goes through huge piles of archival documents with enviable diligence.

Friendly advice: it pays off to caffeinate and hydrate yourself before a visit. There do stand two old-school vending machines in the vestibule but they don’t accept cards, nor are they friendly to certain coins. Many patrons have no choice but to ask the librarians at the front desk to change paper money. They are always nice and accommodating, but what a surreal situation. If you just want to glimpse the library, use this registration form, otherwise proceed this way.

2. Library of the Museum of Ethnography (location; Tuesday through Friday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.): The new building of the Museum of Ethnography (2022) and its striking roof garden has become a popular attraction but it is a pity that too few people actually make it inside. The permanent collection is immensely enjoyable and something of an international model: I am told that ethnography-museum professionals from around the world come visit to take cues and consult with the local staff.

Now I am here to draw your attention to the museum’s research library located on the second floor of the southern wing. The place, which is open to all, might just be the most luxurious library I have visited: enormous interior spaces, a well-functioning A/C, comfortable couches and snug corners, squeaky clean restrooms. And panoramic City Park-views. For lunch, I usually head to the cafeteria downstairs for the solid lunch prix fixe.

3. Metropolitan Szabó Ervin Library (location; Monday through Friday 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.): Budapest's Palace Quarter, the inner part of District 8, was once the most desirable and the playground of the Hungarian aristocracy. Residential palazzos of families such as the Festetics, the Esterházy, and the Károlyi cradled the giant Neoclassical building of the National Museum and its sculpture-filled garden. The Communist regime chased out the Hungarian aristocracy after WWII, but a few of the astonishing interiors have been preserved. Such as the fourth floor of the Metropolitan Szabó Ervin Library, formerly the Baron Wenckheim Palace. The sixth floor contains the amazing Budapest collection, with a constantly rotating exhibition.

One will find here students cramming for their exams in the former ballroom hung with a giant chandelier and in the mahogany-paneled cigar room. Gilded Rococo motifs appear throughout. It is possible to buy a visitor’s pass (€5) to peek inside. Many students take their study breaks of various lengths at Fecske Presszó, a low-priced cafe outside the library. Budapest’s most fashionable burger joint is also just around the corner: Smashy.

4. Library of the French Institute in Budapest (location; Tuesday to Friday 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.): A hallowed ground for Budapest Francophiles, the French Institute was erected during the twilight years of the Communist period (1988-1992). Designed by the French architect Georges Maurios, the building was the first example in Budapest of deconstructivist architecture, that brainy style inspired by the post-structuralist philosophy of Jacques Derrida and characterized by intentionally distorted spaces and conflicting wall treatments. Think of Peter Eisenman or Frank Gehry’s early works. Deconstructivist buildings can be awkward and self-serving but the French Institute feels sufficiently weird without being dysfunctional.

The library occupies the top three floors of the building with striking Danube River views (to your left: the Hungarian Parliament; to your right: the Chain Bridge). The ground-floor cafe amounts to a mini trip to France, with a profusion of French magazines, French wines, and French people. The goat cheese salad is delicious.

5. ELTE University Library (location; Monday through Friday 9 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.): Budapest’s oldest library as part of Hungary’s oldest university. The current library was erected during the peak of the Renaissance Revival (1876) which is why the whole building is a study in Renaissance details, from the wall-mounted aedicules to the great reading hall. Which is very great indeed, frescoed with allegorical figures by the great Károly Lotz and anchored by a portrait of King Habsburg Franz Joseph (this is a real treat because the Communist Party removed most depictions of Habsburg rulers; this one was only draped over).

The crowd? College students, naturally, so things get busy around the exam period. For lunch, I have three recommendations. Roasted sausages at Belvárosi Disznótoros, or affordable homestyle lunch at Balla Hús and Városház Snack. If it’s time for a drink, dart across the street from the library to Ibolya. 

6. Library of the Academy of Sciences (location; Monday through Friday 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.): The library abuts the august halls of the Academy in the city center. The pre-war building, facing Arany János utca, was initially the Academy’s rental apartment complex, but the library moved in when its growing collection demanded additional space. Order reigns supreme here: each visitor is assigned a seat, although one can lobby for the Danube-facing corner. The reading halls are hung with portraits of deceased Academy members, including a cigar-smoking Kálmán Mikszáth, the great novelist, rendered by Gyula Benczúr (all of them men; the first woman member wasn’t elected until 1949).

Here’s a lunch plan: saunter over to the Academy, enter through the main gate and turn left to the cafeteria. You will pass a heart-wrenching marble wall relief showing the moment in 1876 when Queen Sisi paid respect to the great statesman, Ferenc Deák, who lay in state in the Academy’s vestibule (Deák orchestrated the creation of Austria-Hungary).

7. Library of the Museum of Fine Arts (location; Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.): In 1997, the library of the Museum of Fine Arts (Szépművészeti) was moved out of the desperately space-deprived museum on Heroes’ Square, finding its new home in a standalone building a few blocks away in Szondi utca. It is an immensely peaceful place for learning and research. I usually come here to read old exhibition catalogues or to work in a completely quiet and uninterrupted space. There are rarely more than a few people – a mix of art students and researchers.

The library overlooks an unexpectedly large interior garden which is ideal for coffee breaks. I usually grab lunch at Szász Pékség or a Chinese takeout. The Szépmű’s librarians forge a notoriously close-knit community. When I recently posted a photo on Instagram, somebody responded: “Haven’t been there in decades. Andor still works there?” He does!