Budapest has plenty of specialty coffee shops, several cool wine bars, and an increasing number of hip breakfast restaurants, but Portobello is the first that triples as all three at once. This high-ceilinged space is tucked away on a cute downtown cobblestoned street. A sleek coffee machine, blond wood, oversized windows, and a communal table dominate the beautifully polished interior.
On a recent visit, my coffee was made from beans harvested on a high-altitude farm in Rwanda (and sourced from a renowned Berlin-based roastery, THE BARN). This may sound too, er, high-minded, but the batch brew was deeply flavorful, and at €2.5 no pricier than elsewhere in the city. Of the slim breakfast menu, which is available all day, I most enjoyed the granola bowl, the sourdough bread topped with scrambled eggs, kale, and raclette, and the "Turkish Breakfast" — two sunny-side-up eggs sitting in a yogurt tinged with spices (€5-7). Also good is the ricotta pancake.
In the evenings, the wines take center stage. Portobello's selections feature natural wines — fermented grape juice made with little intervention and low or no amount of sulfites — sourced both from Hungary and abroad. When in doubt, go for Szóló, one of the first natural wine producers in the renowned Tokaj wine region in northeastern Hungary.