Budapest has plenty of specialty coffee shops, several cool wine bars, and an increasing number of hip breakfast restaurants, but Portobello is the first that triples as all three at once. This high-ceilinged space is tucked away on a cobblestoned downtown side street, with a sleek coffee machine, blond wood, oversized windows, and a communal table dominating the polished interior.

On a recent visit, my coffee was made from beans harvested on a high-altitude farm in Rwanda and sourced from a renowned Berlin-based roastery. This might sound too high-minded, but the batch brew was deeply flavorful and at €2.5 no pricier than elsewhere in the city. Of the slim breakfast menu, which is available all day, I most enjoyed the granola bowl, the sourdough bread piled with scrambled eggs, kale, and raclette, and the "Turkish Breakfast" — two sunny-side-up eggs sitting in a yogurt tinged with spices. Also good is the ricotta pancake.

In the evenings, the wines take center stage. Portobello specializes in natural wines — fermented grape juice made with little intervention and low or no amount of sulfites — sourced both from Hungary and abroad.

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