Marika Lángos Sütője

For a journey back in time, stop by this hole-in-the-wall on the upper deck of the Klauzal Market in Budapest's old Jewish Quarter. Marika is the driving force behind the kitchen, while her husband, Csaba, sources the ingredients and decides on the daily-changing Hungarian classics. Many people come here for lángos, a deep-fried flatbread topped with sour cream and grated cheese (€2). The daily homestyle specials usually include a goulash, paprika-laced stews, and seasonal dishes like stuffed cabbage during the cold months.

The palacsinta (Hungarian crepes) is also good, especially if you kindly remind Marika to use a liberal hand with the fillings, of which the sweet cottage cheese (túró) and the chocolate cream are my favorites (they're even better when combined). The two-course lunch prix fixe costs only €4. Part of the fun of coming here is to observe the peculiar teamwork between Marika and Csaba, who command each other with brusque, half-uttered words — sure sign of a decades-long marriage.

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