Marika Lángos Sütője

Stop by this hole-in-the-wall on the upper deck of the Klauzal Market in Budapest's old Jewish Quarter for low-priced Hungarian food. Marika is the driving force behind the kitchen, while her husband, Csaba, sources the ingredients and decides the menu. Many people come for lángos, a deep-fried flatbread usually topped with sour cream and grated cheese. The daily specials often include a goulash, paprika-laced stews, and seasonal dishes like stuffed cabbage during the cold months.

The palacsinta (Hungarian crepes) is also good, especially if you kindly remind Marika to use a liberal hand with the fillings, of which the sweet cottage cheese (túró) and the chocolate cream are my favorites. Part of the fun is observing the peculiar teamwork between Marika and Csaba, who command each other with brusque, half-uttered words – sure signs of a decades-long marriage. Closed on the weekend!