Some pockets of Buda can be as lively as Pest, but they're few and far between. Bartók Béla Boulevard is one such revitalized Buda neighborhood, featuring art galleries, cafés, and bars. Kelet, which is a snug all-day café lined with walls of books, was one of the early birds here that helped breathe new life into the area. Boasting a floor-to-ceiling window, it's perfect for people-watching.

I also enjoy coming here in the evenings, when the small, crammed tables fill to capacity and quiet chatter drifts from the dimly lit space. The patrons, a cross-section of the neighborhood, exude a healthy sense of bourgeois sensibility.

In addition to the usual coffee options, Kelet also serves Turkish coffee. If you need a snack, go for the cakes, especially the carrot cake, instead of the mediocre sandwiches and mezze plates. There's Chinese (oolong) and Japanese (sencha, matcha) loose leaf tea varieties as well as local beers and wine.

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