Fans of natural wines, staches, white socks, beanies, and wire-framed glasses will find themselves at home in Cafe Kandl, a buzzing restaurant located in a side street of Vienna's fashionable District 7. Both the food and the wine program capture our global zeitgeist: Kandl's vegetable-forward shared plates and easy-drinking reds would be familiar in places like northern Williamsburg, Brooklyn (its prices, too).
A highlight is the faux gras, a phony liver pâté made from mushrooms and wine gel and perched atop soft and crispy brioche. Updated takes of Austrian classics also appear, such as the savory Germknödel and the roasted liver with creamy potato. Kandl isn’t cheap: a few small bites and two glasses of wine quickly run up to €65 or so. Another warning: as is often the case with such unironically cool establishments, the servers can be uncomfortably "edgy."