Öcsi étkezde

Opened in 1981, Öcsi étkezde is a lunch-only eatery in Budapest's District 8. The engine of this tiny mom-and-pop restaurant is Erzsi, who runs the kitchen all by herself and occasionally pops into the dining area with flour-dusted hands to ask a regular patron whether he wants a schnitzel with his lecsó. Feri, her husband, sporting a white lab coat, multitasks by taking orders, serving food, and chatting with customers, most of whom he knows by name. Despite pushing 70, he retains a youthful presence and handsome features.

The daily-changing, handwritten menu consists of affordable, reliably prepared Hungarian classics. Erzsi shines brightest when it comes to the schnitzel variations ("frissensültek"), the meatballs, and vegetable stews – the főzelék. Öcsi is a neighborhood hub: on any day, the tables might be filled with longtime regulars (Margit néni 1, and Margit néni 2, usually next to each other); Roma people from the district; stylish Millennials; office workers; and even tourists. A true-to-Budapest dining experience in a true-to-Budapest neighborhood. Lunch only, Monday through Thursday! After my meal, I usually get delicious new-wave coffee at Kastner, around the corner.