O boufés is a pricey fish-forward restaurant in Vienna's city center and the sister project of the two-Michelin-starred Konstantin Filippou next door to it. Given the price points – a meal with a drink comes out to about €100 per person – businesspeople and well-off Viennese families fill most tables.

O boufés fits right into the international zeitgeist when it comes to design and concept: neo-Bauhaus lighting fixtures hang from the bare walls while tattooed servers scurry about with small plates and hazy bottles of natural wines in hand. The dishes are very tasty – sardine rillettes; smoked catfish; walnut-inflected tuna tartar – but I kept wishing for more varied flavors and culinary excellence for these price points (a truly excellent dish is the €26 fish soup layered with saffron and a crabs-filled roll). And a little less eagerness on the side of the servers to "upsell" to customers.

But if you prefer the comforts of the city center and in search of a hip place with a strong wine program, O boufés is a good choice.

To remain unbiased, I visit all places incognito and pay for my own meals and drinks. If you're enjoying this article, please consider supporting me by making a one-time payment (PayPal, Venmo).