A hotel restaurant always runs the risk of feeling detached from the fabric of the city, which is why it took so long for me to visit ARZ, a Lebanese establishment on the ground floor of the five-star Intercontinental Budapest. A visiting friend drew my attention to it and I'm glad he did. On a recent evening, I had excellent cold mezzes, tender kibbeh, and juicy grilled meats here – shish taouk and lamb skewers. And an unexpectedly glorious dessert called Um Ali, croissants soaked in a vanilla-laced cream and sprinkled with pistachios and dried fruits. The wines came from Lebanon's well-known producer, Chateau Musar.

You're also here for the striking views as the hotel occupies a precious stretch of real estate on the Danube's bank. ARZ's floor-to-ceiling windows provide open vistas toward the Royal Palace, the Chain Bridge, the Matthias Church, and the Fisherman's Bastion across the dusty-blue river. Few Budapest restaurants rival the views. €6-9 mezzes, €15 grilled meats, and a panoramic terrace for the outdoor season.

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