A sizable city with a rich culture, Eger offers plenty of activities for a weekend.
Last year, I spent a couple of weeks in Eger researching the life of János Pyrker, an enlightened archbishop who was a great patron of the arts. While in Eger – a 50,000-resident city in eastern Hungary – I discovered other attractions in this historic city, which is mainly known to Budapest residents for its Bull’s Blood (Bikavér) wine and the vast castle from which the Hungarian troops defeated the mighty Ottoman army in 1552.
For example: a Turkish bath, an Ottoman minaret (one of only three still standing in Hungary), an 18th-century camera obscura, a beautiful Baroque library, Pyrker’s incredible Neoclassical basilica, a wonderful picture gallery, a lively farmers’ market with a delicious lángos vendor, a marzipan museum with a Guinness record to its name, a unexpectedly grand photography museum, excellent winemakers, good restaurants, and a memorable hotel. Details below. Eger: less than two hours away from Budapest by train! (Use this map to find all places mentioned in the article below.)
#1 - Visit the archbishop's library inside Eger’s Lyceum (location; closed on Sunday and Monday; small admission)
Across the street from the Eger's famous Basilica stands the palatial Eszterházy Károly Catholic University (built in 1761-1785). As an enlightened aristocrat and Archbishop of Eger, Eszterházy paid the construction costs of the institution, which was then only a secondary school given that Hungary's Queen, Maria Theresa, refused to grant it university status. The wonderful library (1793) holds several treasures, for example a handwritten letter by Mozart addressed to his sister. And the astonishing ceiling fresco by Johann Lucas Kracker, which shows a scene from the Council of Trent that set off the Counter-Reformation in the 16th century.
#2 - Visit the archbishop's palace (location; 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed on the weekend; small admission)
Having been the seat of an Episcopal see means that Eger is especially rich in churches and clerical institutions, and there's also the Archbishop's own residence, which is partly open to the public (initially, the archbishops lived on the hillside where the castle is, they fled from Eger during the Ottoman wars in the 16th-century, and returned in the early 1700s to this current location).
The elegant halls display beautiful ecclesiastical objects such as jewel-encrusted chalices and ceremonial robes, and there are lots of period furniture from the late Baroque and the Biedermeier periods. The archbishop's private chapel is also predictably grand.
Most unexpected is the painting collection, which includes several masterpieces; for example a work by the Dutch Hendrick Ter Brugghen, who was part of the famous 17th-century Utrecht school inspired by Caravaggio’s use of light and shadow. Also here: a Piranesi etching of Rome and paintings by Hungary's greats, such as László Mednyánszky and Gyula Benczúr.
#3 - Visit the camera obscura & the Astronomical Museum inside Eger’s lyceum (location; closed on Wednesday; small admission)
In addition to the Archbishop's library, above, the Eszterházy Károly Catholic University's main building hides another worthy destination: the 18th-century observatory. The camera obscura, which was one of the first of its kind in Hungary, is located on the tenth floor of the building's tower. The operator of this small darkened shed zooms in on various Eger landmarks and provides helpful commentary to visitors. A child-friendly astronomical museum is also up there, as well as a terrace with incredible views of Eger.
#4 - Visit the castle of Eger (location; open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; HUF 3,600 admission)
Starting in the 11th century, Eger gradually expanded its hilltop complex so that by the 1400s an enormous Gothic cathedral and the Archbishop's luxurious palace presided over the city. With the growing Ottoman threat, however, the area transformed into a defensive fortress lined with bastions (the Archbishop moved to safer grounds).
In 1552, the vastly outnumbered Hungarian troops successfully fended off the Ottoman army’s siege. Eger’s heroic defense against the 45,000-strong enemy has been deeply ingrained in the local consciousness through Géza Gárdonyi’s famous book, Egri csillagok (1901) and later also a movie. This is why people sometimes forget that in 1596 Eger did eventually fall, hence all the ruins that await visitors to the castle today (and also because later the archbishops used the area as a stone quarry for their building projects).
Several child-friendly exhibitions in the underground chambers shed light on the place's history and its famous battle. The red marble tomb of the hero-general, István Dobó, is also here, and the calvary monument culminates in panoramic open vistas.
#5 - Visit Eger’s basilica (location; open daily; no admission)
The construction of this incredible building, and many other things in Eger and greater Hungary, harks back to the patronage of János Pyrker, the city's enlightened archbishop. The Neoclassical basilica, built from 1831 to 1836, is the third biggest church in Hungary and the seat of Eger's Archbishop. József Hild's design evokes the buildings of ancient Rome, hence the pedimented entrance portico and the hemispherical dome resembling Rome's Pantheon, and the great lunette windows and barrel vaults which wouldn't be out of place in a Roman bath.
The high altar – John the Evangelist being plunged into burning oil – was painted by the Austrian Josef Danhauser, a protege of Pyrker. The ceiling frescoes, from 1950, are by a local master, István Takács, from nearby Mezőkövesd. I especially like the one showing a procession of Hungarian people making their way between the Eger basilica and the St. Peter's in the Vatican.
Outside, there's a pair of stone statues of Hungary's canonized medieval kings, Saint Stephen (István) and Saint Ladislaus (László), as well as that of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. These stoneworks, and those atop and inside the basilica, came from Marco Casagrande, a gifted Italian sculptor whom Pyrker brought over from Venice, where he had been Archbishop (so-called Patriarch).
The crypt features a beautiful Neoclassical rotunda at the center of which Archbishop Pyrker's heart is buried. The rest of his body rests in the monastery of Lilienfeld where he had been a priest.
#6 - Take in the views from Eger’s minaret (location; open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; small admission)
Only three minarets have remained in Hungary from the time when the country was occupied by Ottoman Turkey in the 16th and 17th centuries. Of these, Eger's minaret is in best shape. It's a surreal experience to glance at this 40-meter tall red sandstone vertical amid the city’s myriad church towers. The mosque that had stood beside the minaret was demolished long ago. The panoramic views from up top are worth the climb.
#7 - Go to a wine tasting
Eger is home to one of Hungary's top wine regions, known for its red blend, the Bull's Blood (Egri Bikavér). There's plenty of white to go around too, many made from native grapes such as the Egri Leányka. Be sure to book a tasting appointment in advance, for example to St. Andrea (email, +36 30 822 8790) or to Bolyki (email, +36 70 603 9474).
#8 - Visit the Ziffer Sándor Picture Gallery (location; open daily; small admission)
Like much of the Hungarian countryside, Eger once had a thriving Jewish community accounting for more than ten percent of the population. In the spring of 1944, Eger's Jewish residents were deported to Auschwitz and most of them killed there. After decades of neglect, the city's synagogue now houses an art museum – Ziffer Sándor Gallery – whose exhibitions are among the best in Hungary.
#9 - Visit the György Kepes Art Center (location; closed on Sunday and Monday; free admission)
The Hungarian-born György Kepes (1906-2001) was a modern painter and photographer and part of the circle of Hungarian emigres that included László Moholy-Nagy, Marcel Breuer, and Robert Capa (he is said to have been the first person to hand a camera to Capa). For decades, Kepes was an influential teacher at MIT in the United States, exploring ways in which science and art can find meaningful overlaps. The Kepes Art Center in Eger has a major collection of Kepes's photography – some more experimental than others – and paintings.
#10 - Roam Eger's Baroque city center (location; open daily)
The Franciscan church (1758-1773) that anchors Eger’s main square has a playful, undulating facade that brings to mind the Baroque churches of Italy and is the only such example in Hungary. The dramatic quadratura ceiling frescoes depict scenes from the life of Anthony of Padua. The building abutting the church from the left is the former monastery, now a high school dormitory, while on the right stands Eger's City Hall.
The square outside is presided over by the self-assured bronze statue István Dobó, the general of the Hungarian troops who heroically defended the city in 1552 against the outsized Ottoman army. Charming Baroque streets and most restaurants and cafes are also in this central area.
#11 - Soak yourself in Eger’s turkish baths (location; open daily, hours vary; HUF 4,000 admission)
If you find Budapest’s Ottoman-era hammams too busy, here’s your chance for a travel back in time within a cozier and less crowded setting. The highlight is the recently renovated 17th-century main bath topped with gleaming golden mosaics (I only wish the water were a wee bit warmer). A sauna, steamroom, and Turkish massage are available.
#12 - Go to Eger's Antique Shop (location; closed on Sunday)
Vases, embroidered clothes, books, old bills, clocks, porcelain, glass – the place called Régiségbolt in the city center sells it all. As with all excellent antique shops, you can stumble into both treasures and tchotchkes.
#13 - Visit Kopcsik Marcipánia (location; open daily)
Lajos Kopcsik (1941-2022) was a pastry maker in Eger who wished that his elaborate creations would be preserved for posterity. This museum, which opened in 2005, holds an impressive lineup ranging from Eger’s minaret to an oversized bottle of Bull’s Blood to copies of paintings by Van Gogh and Picasso. All of them made from fondant (the bigger objects have non-edible supports). Kopcsik furnished a whole room with Baroque furniture, using 650 kilos of sugar. Conveniently, there's a marzipan store for shopping next door.
#14 - Visit Eger's market hall (location; closed on Sunday)
I always like to explore the local produce market because even a quick glimpse provides broader context about the city and its residents. And of course you can stumble into delicious things; in Eger's market, this would be the homemade jams and seasonal fruits sold on the ground floor, and the feather-light lángos on the upstairs (Rohlicsek).
#15 - Pile up on wine at Dűlő Chocolate & Wine (location; open daily)
Dűlő Chocolate & Wine is an excellent wine retailer right in Eger's city center. The store carries nearly all Eger producers, even those that are hard to find in Budapest. The proprietor can provide helpful recommendations. Perhaps too helpful: I dropped in for a bottle of kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch) recently and left with many more than that. My current favorites are Kovács Nimród and Böjt.
#16 - Have the most delicious lángos at Rohlicsek (location; closed Sunday and Monday)
Seeing the ever-present lines outside this lángos vendor, I did have some expectations but nothing like the delicious fried disc of dough topped with sour cream and grated cheese that was handed to me. Feather light and just about to melt in your mouth, with no trace of oil. Rohlicsek Lángos is located on the upper deck of Eger's market, and no visitor to the city should miss it.
#17 - Enjoy traditional food at HBH Sörház & Étterem (location; +36 36 515 516)
Opened in 1988, HBH is a rightfully beloved establishment in Eger. The menu is inspired by the hearty cuisine of Bavaria – soup-forward, meat-forward, beer-forward – so the place is especially enjoyable in the cool months. Hungarian classics are also aplenty. Right on Eger’s main square.
#18 - Fine dine at Macok Bistro (location; +36 36 516 180)
Macok is Eger's most upscale restaurant. They serve beautifully plated Hungarian and regional dishes, such as the trout filet sourced from the nearby Szilvásvárad and paired with tender mushroom variations. With mains in the €20-25 range, Macok isn’t cheap, but very good.
#19 - Take in the vibes and the homemade pastries at Pöttyös Kávézó (location; closed on Sunday)
Across from Eger’s lively market hall lies this cozy cafe. While noshing on a cottage cheese (túró) and dill spiked lepény, a cabbage strudel, or a plum-filled pastry, you can observe a cross-section of local residents – from the neighborhood thugs to the university professors. Friendly price points.
#20 - Relish wonderful pastries at Stühmer Mintabolt Cukrászda (location; +36 70 945 3702)
In 2006, a local family from Maklár purchased the right for the Stühmer name and revived this venerable pastry chain that was nationalized during the Communist period. They have several locations here in Eger. This one on Kossuth Lajos utca, behind the Eszterházy Károly university's main building, is the most recent branch and with the widest assortment of pastries, cakes and chocolates.
#21 - Have new-wave coffee at Depresso in the city center (location; open daily)
Restaurants and cafés located on a city’s main square must be taken with a grain of salt, but Depresso is no tourist trap. You’re here for the open views, the new-wave coffee, and the delicious daily specials.
#22 - Stay at the positively weird Erla Villa (location; [email protected]; +36 30 589 6536; from €110)
If Donald Trump owned a house in Eger, it would resemble Erla Villa. This postmodern mansion was built for a wealthy local businessman before becoming a hotel recently. Evidently, no expense was spared on the interior, which features Corinthian columns, enormous bathrooms with tubs, and a swimming pool, all of which overlook Eger’s city center. The food is notably excellent thanks to in-house chef Richárd Bata (non hotel guests can also book a dinner). Erla Villa, which contains only suites, fourteen in total, is an adult-only hotel. Once you see the decorative sculptures inside, you’ll know why. Highly recommended.
#23 - Stay at 1552 Boutique Hotel (location; [email protected]; +36 30 740 3701; from €120)
Located inside a beautifully refurbished Baroque building in downtown, the recently opened 1552 is one of the few upscale hotels in Eger (four-star superior). Each of the rooms has a different design inspired by Eger’s history, such as “Bikavér,” where the wallpaper depicts a raging bull and the headboards are cut in the shape of wine bottles. There’s of course also a “Turkish” room and a “Castle” suite. Breakfast is generous, service friendly, parking available.