Bruder is the coolest restaurant in Vienna at the moment – it’s downright icy! If hipster weren’t such a loaded word, I’d deploy it in this writeup, but instead I’ll say that Bruder is the type of place where servers wear baseball hats and tattoos, where jars of fermenting vegetables line the walls, and where natural wines come from countries such as Czechia. Crucially, though, Bruder is a serious establishment and there's no trace of the blithe arrogance that often plagues some comparably minded restaurants in Vienna.

In line with the New Nordic-school, the plates are packed with seasonal produce and homemade preserves, as was the case with my trout salad enlivened with fermented chickpeas and peanuts. The pure-tasting bratwurst with sauerkraut arrived, playfully, on a plate resembling a paper tray, the standard delivery vessel for sausages at the city's famed Würstelstands. My favorite was the poppy-seed noodles – a classic across former Habsburg lands – and elevated with mint leaves and apple variations: chutney, sorbet, and a sip of brandy. Daring and delicious. The three-course prix fixe, for €53, will leave you with a full stomach (options also include a two- and a six-course meal). Reservations are a must.

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