Tokány is a stew dish similar to pörkölt and paprikás, but usually prepared with less paprika than those two. Historically, tokány was common in Transylvania and the name itself comes from the Romanian word for ragout. You can recognize a tokány by the thin, elongated shape of the meat pieces. Smoked szalonna and sour cream give a distinct taste to the csikós tokány, which can be made with any meat you like.
Yield: 4-5 servings; Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes
800 grams (1 ¾ pounds) boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1 cm (½ inch) by 3 ½ cm (1 ½ inches) elongated pieces
200 grams (½ pound) smoked pork belly or bacon, cut into small cubes, about 1 cm (½ inch) long. If using smoked pork belly, remove skin.
350 grams (1 ¾ cups) long-grain rice, rinsed
1 onion, minced
1 teaspoon salt
½ tablespoon Hungarian sweet paprika
3 pinches ground pepper
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 ripe medium tomato, peeled and cut into very small pieces (or puréed into smooth paste using an immersion blender)
1 Hungarian wax pepper or yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into very small pieces (or puréed into smooth paste using an immersion blender)
1 bunch fresh parsley, chopped
1 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon flour
Step 1: Add the bits of pork belly or bacon into a large pot or Dutch oven and render the fat on medium heat until meat turns golden-brown and crispy, about 8-10 minutes. When ready, remove the meat pieces with a slotted spoon and put aside in a small bowl. Keep the rendered fat in the skillet.
Step 2: Add minced onion into the pot and sauté in the hot fat until translucent, about 6-8 minutes.
Step 3: Add meat and sear until it’s lightly browned, about 4-5 minutes.
Step 4: Reduce heat to medium-low and stir in paprika, minced garlic, the small bits of tomato and yellow pepper, salt, and freshly ground pepper. Add 150 ml (½ cup) water, place lid on pot, and let it steam-cook for about 1 hour, until pork is very tender.
Step 5: While meat is cooking, prepare the rice. Rinse the rice in cold running water then drain well. Add rice to a small pot and cover with 2 ½ cups of cold salted water. With the lid on, bring water to a boil, then turn heat to very low and continue cooking for about 15 minutes, until rice is soft but not mushy. Then turn off heat, remove lid, and let rice cool for 15 minutes.
Step 6: In a medium bowl, mix together sour cream and flour. Ladle a few spoons of the hot cooking juices from the pot into the sour cream mixture and stir to combine.
Step 7: Turn off the heat and add sour cream mixture to the pot and stir well. Turn heat to medium-high and let the sauce thicken into a creamy consistency at a low simmer for 1-2 minutes.
Step 8: Taste the sauce for salt and pepper and add more if needed. Serve the csikós tokány and the rice side by side on a dinner plate and drizzle chopped parsley on top.
Words of advice
(i) It's easy to oversalt this dish: the szalonna is already salty so you may need to add only a little. (ii) Popular side dishes include nokedli, rice, and noodles.
I created these recipes with the help of nearly a dozen historical Hungarian cookbooks, adjusting ingredients, cooking times, and methods to reflect my own preferences and tastes of the current day.