Zeller Bistro

Zeller is a tourist-heavy restaurant in Budapest's downtown near the St. Stephen’s Basilica, one of the city's main attractions. Upon arrival, you'll be handed a complimentary Prosecco — albeit slightly flat and presented without much enthusiasm — before being led to one of the four indoor dining rooms. Try to sit is in the light-filled interior courtyard topped with a sky window and filled with greenery. All tables come with doodle-inspiring paper and colored pencils.

Does Zeller live up to the hype? The short answer: not entirely. The dishes are reliable, but slightly overpriced (mains are €13-20) and far from memorable. The menu is a hodgepodge of pricey meats — think wild boar, duck liver, mangalitsa, lamb, venison — served with unexciting vegetables on the side. There's a wine list featuring Hungarian bottles. My impression is that Zeller has gotten a bit too comfortable with its popularity and the kitchen could use some of the ambition and eagerness to please that made it so popular in the first place.

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