Vaj, which translates to "butter," is a spacious all-day bakery located a bit outside the city center by Rákóczi tér. The sprawling glass display is crowded with flaky, steaming, and aromatic breakfast pastries, breads, and bagels just out of the oven. Some people claim that Vaj serves Budapest's best túrós táska, a traditional Hungarian pastry filled with sweet-tart túró. I wouldn't go that far (more stuffing please!), but it's very good, as is everything else: the chocolate and the pistachio croissant, the apple and vanilla-topped danish, the plum and pecan-sprinkled roll. The only problem is the prices, which are prohibitively high for most Budapest locals.

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