Vaj, which translates to "butter," is a spacious all-day bakery located a bit outside the city center by Rákóczi tér. The sprawling glass display is crowded with flaky, steaming, and aromatic breakfast pastries, breads, and bagels just come out of the oven. Some people claim that Vaj serves Budapest's best túrós táska, a traditional Hungarian pastry filled with sweet-tart túró. I wouldn't go that far (more stuffing please!), but it's very good, as is pretty much everything else here: the pain au chocolat, the pistachio croissant, the apple and vanilla-topped danish, the plum and pecan-sprinkled roll. The only downside is the prices, which are so high that most locals in Budapest can't afford to come here.
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