Vaj, which translates to "butter," is a spacious all-day bakery located a bit outside the city center by Rákóczi tér. The sprawling glass display is crowded with flaky and steaming and aromatic breakfast pastries, breads, and bagels that have just come out of the oven. There are people who claim that Vaj serves Budapest's best túrós táska, a traditional Hungarian dumpling stuffed with sweet-tart túró. I wouldn't go that far (more stuffing please!), but it's very good, as is pretty much everything else I've tried: the pain au chocolat, the pistachio croissant, the apple and vanilla-topped danish, the plum and pecan-sprinkled roll.

Coffee, tea, and sandwiches are also available. The only downside is the prices: as far as I know, Vaj is currently the most expensive bakery in the city (some of the stuffed rolls cost €3, which is astronomical for Budapest).

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