Textúra is the 2018 venture of the team behind Borkonyha, the decade-old, Michelin-starred restaurant located on the other side of this downtown side street. At Textúra, too, you can experience executive chef Ákos Sárközi's unique brand of technically precise cooking. Rather than packing the menu with updated Hungarian classics as many Budapest fine dining restaurants do, Textúra relegates the local staples to a minor, supporting role (the chicken paprikash, for example, shows up as an unremarkable appetizer).

How come? Sárközy is a local celebrity chef, and since his Hungarian fans comprise many of Textúra's customers, dishes from farther afield may intrigue them more than a bowl of goulash, no matter how reimagined it may be. Instead, there's plenty of seafood and other top ingredients not native to landlocked Hungary.

In fact, the best of what I've had here was a lightly grilled octopus appetizer paired with ethereal little fried balls of blood sausage (€12). Also excellent is the quince soup, lightly spiked with chilis, laid with scallops, and drizzled with pine nuts (€7). Of the mains, I enjoyed most the tender and flavorful wild boar neck with red cabbage variations (€19) and the fish of the day, which was fogas, a prized freshwater species with a subtly sweet taste (€20). If you have room for dessert, opt for the poppy seed ravioli drenched in crème anglaise (€7). Not all dishes are hits — the quinoa salad was notably bland.

The wine program, overseen by head sommelier Krisztián Juhász, is one of the best you'll find in Budapest, featuring scores of local winemakers across all the main wine regions of Hungary. Give Krisztián some hints about your taste preference, and then let him surprise you.

We visit all places incognito, pay for our own meals and drinks, and write independent reviews.