Pocakos Lakatos is a lunch-only eatery located on the outskirts of Budapest. The operation revolves around owner Ferenc Hangos. He mans the counter in his signature white suspenders and multi-tasks between plating dishes, handling payments, and shouting orders to the kitchen staff behind him. He does this playfully, referring to dishes in humorous nicknames. His banter with regular customers is peppered with witty personal insults (he seems to take particular joy from roasting a customer behind whom a sufficiently long line of people has formed to appreciate his verbal slap).

Speaking of regulars, Pocakos Lakatos is the type of place where most patrons are blue-collar men. Perhaps this explains why packed plates of beef tripe are consumed in higher quantities here than at snooty downtown restaurants. Stuffed cabbage, sausage, and other hearty Hungarian dishes are also popular. Order whatever seems most appetizing from the daily-changing dishes, some of which are stacked behind the glass counter and cost around €5 a portion.

Pocakos Lakatos has only six tables and the wait at lunch-time can be maddeningly long, but if you enjoy a truly local experience, this is it. I promise you will be the only tourist here.