The sleepy outer part of Budapest's District 9 is an unlikely place for an upscale French restaurant, so it's against the odds that here hides Petrus, the Bib Gourmand-awarded bistro of Hungarian owner-chef Zoltán Feke. You might think that the vintage Citroën car parked inside the restaurant overdoes the French countryside vibes, but the snug space is comfortably elegant. Petrus's slim menu features both classic French bistro food — think onion soup and baked camambert — and fine dining fare. The tasting menu skews to the latter, the a la carte offerings the former.

The highlights of the seasonal tasting menu are the foie gras and the butternut squash veloute with a blood sausage perched in the center of the plate (the six courses cost €55 per person, or €90 with wine pairing). Of the less inventive dishes, reliably good are both the duck confit (€16) with a side of potato gratin, and the beef bourguignon (€15) sitting in its signature sauce spiked with wine, mushrooms, and pearl onions. If you have some stomach space left, get the chocolate eclairs to finish. The wine selections consist mainly of Hungarian options.

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