In Budapest, Onyx comes closest to offering a traditional European fine dining experience. The opulent interior with two enormous crystal chandeliers hanging in the dining room along with white-glove-wearing waiters somewhat predetermines the dishes that can realistically be served inside this fancy space. The pan-European menu features playful textures, beautiful visuals, and elaborate plating at this two Michelin-starred downtown restaurant (Onyx is the only Hungarian restaurant currently with two stars).
Chef Ádám Mészáros, who has been in charge of Onyx's kitchen since 2016, is a daring cook. This is apparent when just a single piece of roasted cauliflower arrives as part of his 6-course tasting menu. Other inventive plates include the “apple ravioli”, where paper-thin slices of fresh apple encapsulate a creamy, baked version of the fruit. He puts a similar twist on the Hungarian foie gras, which comes in the form of a pate and a mousse, side-by-side. The flavors don’t always come together perfectly, the water buffalo tartar and the panna cotta didn’t mix well, but most of his seasonally-changing dishes are both visually stunning and delectable. (It’s a near impossibility to not wolf down the entire contents of the bread basket, particularly those sprinkled with beetroots and sunflower seeds.) The 6- and 8-course tasting menus run at the equivalent of €100 and €115 per person, respectively, not including wine pairing. Reservations to Onyx are a must.