Buda is better known for its rolling hills and tranquil streets than for its lively bars. Even the denser, urban sections are short on places that are worth trekking out to from Pest. One of the notable exceptions is Nemdebár. This dark neighborhood joint fills to capacity most evenings, drawing an eclectic local crowd of hip college students, office workers, and favorite-uncle-type bohemians pushing fifty.

The alternative-chic bartenders serve three types of draft beers and an array of liquors while a DJ spins house, electronic, or drum and bass beats well past midnight most days. Nemdebár is located right by a major transportation hub formerly called “Moscow Square”—many people still call it that instead of Széll Kálmán Square—so it’s easily reachable from near and far.

We visit all places incognito, pay for our own meals and drinks, and write independent reviews.