Kollázs Brasserie & Bar, which occupies the ground floor of the opulent, Art Nouveau building of the Four Seasons Hotel, is a fine dining restaurant and cocktail bar with prime views onto Budapest's Castle Hill. It's the type of place where dark-suited waiters scurry around with tableside carts and pricey bottles of wine. The interior is furnished in a tasteful neo-Art Deco style, complete with marble, dark wood, and brass finishes.
The kitchen specializes in classic French fare like beef bourguignon, but Chef Árpád Győrffy is at his finest when it comes to the tasting menu, aptly named “blind date:” guests have to put themselves in the chef's hands as they receive no upfront information, not even the number of courses. On my most recent visit, it was an exuberant eight-course feast that included raw oysters, salmon roe, squab breast, and venison loin. Győrffy cut his teeth at other Budapest fine dining restaurants, including Arany Kaviár and Alabárdos, and his pedigree shows through in his delicate plating technique, texture combinations, and well-balanced dishes. The tasting menu costs €65 (€100 with wine pairing), which isn't unreasonable for this indulgence when compared with other restaurants of similar caliber.
Pricey as it was, I also enjoyed the €16 cheeseburger—the 200 gram / 7 ounce Angus patty exhibits a wonderfully intense beefiness. It's a classic burger with few garnishes (tomato, lettuce, cheddar) that lets the meat and the squishy, toasted bun do the talking. On Sundays, Kollázs serves a €40 per person lavish brunch buffet that includes seafood and plenty of other treats (no egg-based breakfast though).
The dimly-lit cocktail bar, in the corner of the dining room, offers over 20 types of classic cocktails, ranging from €8 to €13, each prepared with a slight twist.