Kertem (“My garden”) is an enormous beer garden inside Budapest's City Park. The place somehow flies under the radar of most tourists, even though it's not far from Széchenyi Thermal Baths. Tall trees tower over this tranquil area and block out the noises of the nearby streets, which feel a world away. Apart from cold beers, there are grilled sandwiches, of which the "Balkan," a Serbian hamburger-like pljeskavica (€5), is my favorite. The crowd here is a melting pot of laid-back local residents, many of them accompanied by their dogs. Note that Kertem shuts down for the cold months.

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