Named after a class of Hungarian light cavalry soldiers, Huszár is an unfussy neighborhood restaurant serving Hungarian dishes without any twists or updates to traditional recipes. Huszár also satisfies my occasional nostalgia for the type of gruff service and weathered interior that defined Budapest dining in the '90s.

The food is here hit-or-miss. Be sure to avoid the truly awful hortobágyi pancake, but I can recommend the goulash soup, the beef stew (pörkölt; €8), and the paprikash (€7). If pork fat doesn't intimidate you, go for the cigánypecsenye, a pork cutlet topped with fried fatback. Round out your meal with gesztenyepüré, Hungary's take on the chestnut-based Mont Blanc dessert.

Huszár is located outside the city center so prices are somewhat lower than at comparable restaurants in downtown. Many tourists from the nearby hotels come here, which is why two Roma musicians perform Hungarian folk songs on violin and cimbalom every evening between 6 p.m. and 10 p.m. The music is enjoyable, their persistent solicitation for tips less so.

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