Huszár, named after the famed Hungarian light cavalry soldiers, is the type of restaurant where everyday local Hungarian families may go to for lunch on a Sunday. The restaurant prepares Hungarian dishes without “modern twists” or “updates” to traditional recipes. I enjoy going to Huszár because this unchic restaurant doesn’t try to be more than what it is - an unfussy neighborhood joint. Huszár also satisfies my occasional nostalgia for the type of gruff service and weathered interior that defined Budapest restaurants in the 1990s.

Huszár’s food is hit-and-miss. Be sure to avoid the truly awful hortobágyi pancake, but I can recommend the goulash soup (€2.5), the beef stew / pörkölt (€8), and the paprikash (€7). If pork fat doesn't intimidate you, go for the cigánypecsenye, which is a pork neck cutlet topped with fried fatback (€8). Finish the meal off with gesztenyepüré (€3), a puree of sweetened chestnuts coated in whip cream, similar to a Mont Blanc dessert.

Prices are somewhat lower than at comparable restaurants, reflecting the fact that Huszár is located outside the city center. Several hotels are nearby, that's why tourists occupy the tables during the week in this offbeat area. This is also the reason that two gypsy musicians perform Hungarian folk songs every evening between 6 p.m. and 10 p.m. The violinist is accompanied by a person on cimbalom, a Hungarian dulcimer. The music is enjoyable, but they can be annoyingly peristsent about soliciting tips from tourists.