Gdansk Bookstore Café

An Eastern European, bohemian-intellectual spirit oozes from Gdansk Bookstore Café, a dimly lit, densely furnished bar with cozy nooks and crannies along Bartók Béla Boulevard in District 11, on the Buda side of the city. A Polish native from Gdansk, a port city on the Baltic coast, and her Hungarian husband opened this shoebox-sized bar, which features bookshelves of Polish-language books, cheap vodka selections, and Polish and Hungarian craft beers.

They also serve pickled herring, delivered straight from the Baltic Sea, wrapped around a serving of caramelized onion chutney and with thick slices of rye bread and pickles (€4). Don’t miss it. Note that open tables are rare, closing times flexible, and the prices wallet-friendly.