Opened in 1957, Grünauer is a small, traditional restaurant hiding in Vienna's otherwise fashionable District 7. This is a family enterprise of the best kind: lively tables, informal atmosphere, a handwritten menu. Despite, or because of, the rustic-puritan decor, the dishes are very good – deeply local fare heavy on offal plates.

Sour lungs, veal kidney, dumplings filled with pork cracklings (Grammelknödel). Less adventurous eaters will also find Austrian classics to enjoy. The extensive wine list covers all regions of Austria. €17-23 mains. Open weekdays only and advance booking, by phone, is a must.

To remain unbiased, I visit all places incognito and pay for my own meals and drinks. If you're enjoying this article, please consider supporting me by making a one-time payment (PayPal, Venmo).