Fülemüle is an old-school Hungarian-Jewish restaurant hiding on a quiet side street in Budapest’s Palace Quarter. The unhurried, relaxed vibes are just one of the things to like about this modest family-run establishment, where swarms of family photos and ornate seder plates crowd the walls.
Layered with goose fat, the “Jewish" egg salad (€6) slathered on toasted bread and topped with red onions is a tasty appetizer. One of Fülemüle's signatures dishes is the matzo ball soup (€6), made from crushed matzos rather than matzo meal and yielding a coarser texture (the soup has earned raves even from the New York Times). The other standout is the cholent, a giant portion of flavorful bean stew historically eaten for shabbat. There are myriad variations here, some with goose leg, others with foie gras or spicy paprika, but the classic version with smoked brisket and egg is the way to go (€13). If you have room for dessert, try the fried matzo cake filled with ground walnuts and showered in rum-infused hot chocolate.
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