Located on a quiet side street in Budapest’s Palace Quarter, Fülemüle feels a world away from the neighboring party district. The quaint environment is just one of the things to like about this family-run restaurant, which opened in 2000 and specializes in Hungarian-Jewish food.
The cholent, a hearty Shabbat dish, is the specialty of the house. It comes with a variety of toppings, some with goose leg, others with foie gras and spicy paprika, but the classic version with smoked beef and egg is the one to go for (€12). Portions are huge. The other standout is the matzo ball soup (€5), which has earned raves from the New York Times, too. The “Jewish" egg salad (€6) is a bit too heavy on goose fat, but when slathered on toasted bread and topped with red onions, it becomes a fine appetizer. For dessert, try the fried matzo cake filled with walnut spread and rum-infused hot chocolate (€4).
Fülemüle's stereotypically ‘90s, eclectic interior features walls lined with PVC paneling, swarms of family photos, oversized “free wifi” signs, and a glass cabinet with ornate seder plates. The crowd is a cross-section of middle class (Jewish) locals, and tourists, many of whom have found Fülemüle in Lonely Planet’s Budapest guide.