If you’re curious about the modern food scene of the less traveled side of the Danube, in Buda, Bobo restaurant is a worthy newcomer to visit in Rózsadomb, an exclusive residential area. The restaurant's stated mission is to draw Budapest's Bobos, a term made popular by David Brooks's book, Bobos in Paradise, referring to a social class with both a bourgeois and bohemian side to them.

The restaurant occupies a beautifully refurbished 1885 building with an expansive lawn, once the playground of the Hungarian aristocracy. Bobo’s place in the restaurant pecking oder isn’t obvious: atmosphere and prices—mains are €15-20—render it a step above chic bistros but it’s not exactly fine dining either. The short menu is a collection of classics that have long been popular in Hungary, including goulash, matzah ball soup, and freshwater pike-perch, all plated delicately and served on white linen.

I most enjoyed the generously portioned foie gras enclosed in thin wafers and paired with an unctuous cornelian cherry jam (€11). The schnitzel (€15) and the veal paprikash (€14) are better than in most places in Budapest, although also among the priciest. Both the floating island and the plum-filled pastry (szilvás bukta) are good ways to round out your meal, as is a glass of sweet Tokaj wine.

My one gripe with Bobo was the inconsistency of service—depending on which waiter is assigned to your table, service can be kind or brusque.