If you’re curious about the modern food scene of the less traveled side of the Danube, in Buda, Bobo restaurant is a worthy newcomer to visit in Rózsadomb, an exclusive residential area. The restaurant's stated mission is to draw Budapest's Bobos, a term made popular by David Brooks's book, Bobos in Paradise, referring to a social class with both a bourgeois and bohemian side to them.

The restaurant occupies a beautifully refurbished 1885 building with an expansive lawn, once the playground of the Hungarian aristocracy. Bobo’s place in the restaurant pecking oder isn’t obvious: atmosphere and prices—mains are €15-20—render it a step above chic bistros but it’s not exactly fine dining either. The short menu is a collection of classics that have long been popular in Hungary, including goulash, matzah ball soup, and freshwater pike-perch, all plated delicately and served on white linen.

I most enjoyed the generously portioned foie gras enclosed in thin wafers and paired with an unctuous cornelian cherry jam (€11). The schnitzel (€15) and the veal paprikash (€14) are better than in most places in Budapest, although also among the priciest. Both the floating island and the plum-filled pastry (szilvás bukta) are good ways to round out your meal, as is a glass of sweet Tokaj wine.

My one gripe with Bobo was the inconsistency of service—depending on which waiter is assigned to your table, service can be kind or brusque.

We visit all places incognito, pay for our own meals and drinks, and write independent reviews.