From a hearty goulash soup to fried catfish and Mangalica pork chop, you can find many excellent dishes in Tokaj.
#1 - Tokaji Kávépörkölő Manufaktúra és Kávéház (Tokaj; +36 47 552 008)
This spacious café in downtown Tokaj is the main place for specialty coffee in the wine region. Need anything more be said? Morning pastries are also available if you get there early.
#2 - Bobajka Étterem (Tarcal; +36 47 580 016)
Named after a Hungarian poppy-seed dessert, Bobajka is the wine region’s fine dining restaurant (inside the five-star Andrássy Kúria). Chef Imre Varjú, who trained at Budapest's hallowed establishments, puts out upgraded traditional fare with a deft hand: Mangalica in aspic, foie gras, potato stew with paprika sausage and so on.
He uses characteristically regional ingredients, such as the szilva (plums), which appears both in the melt-in-your-mouth-tender beef ribs and the doughy dumplings. The wine list covers the whole Tokaj sweep and more. Price points are surprisingly reasonable with €16-20 mains.
#3 - Dereszla Bisztró (Bodrogkeresztúr; +36 30 678 2273)
This stylish timber-clad restaurant located right along the Bodrog River serves truly delicious dishes within a modern setting. Head chef Bence Bém prepares fish soup, túrógombóc, and other local standouts alongside pastas, burgers, and steaks. Sit by the windows or at the outdoor terrace, which overlook the gently flowing river and the peaceful ancient woodland behind it. Mains are €13-18.
#4 - Sárga Borház (Mezőzombor; +36 47 369 029)
Sárga Borház is the longstanding restaurant of Disznókő, a leading winery whose sweeping vineyards blanket the surrounding hills. The place is located at the entry of the wine region and things can get busy on the outdoor terrace in the summer months. Not just visitors but local winemakers also come here for the solid dishes. Sárga Borház is open every day of the week, year-round. €10-15 mains. After your meal, you can explore Disznókő’s vineyards and pick up some wines at their retail store located behind the restaurant.
#5 - Winestone Tokaj (Tokaj; +36 47 352 344)
Winestone is the ground floor restaurant of the four-star Tokaj Mercure, one of my favorite hotels in the region. While a hotel restaurant always runs the risk of being a bit staid, some of the dishes are memorably delicious, especially the rich soups. Polished Hungarian plates share the menu with lighter fare, salads, and burgers. Winestone is a good option when in search of a nicer sitdown meal in the city of Tokaj. €12-17 mains and a deep wine list.
#6 - Lebuj Fogadó (Bodrogkeresztúr; +36 20 944 9351)
Lebuj is a beloved classic of the wine region, known for its traditional vibes and traditional food. Naturally, tables are covered with red-and-white tableclothes and the portions are completely oversized (observe the wall decorations too). The fish soups are especially good and there are plenty of goulash and schnitzel-variations. Mains are €10-12.
#7 - Vár Vendéglő (Sárospatak; +36 47 311 370)
Another old-school restaurant with traditional Hungarian fare, Vár Vendéglő is located on the other end of the wine region in Sárospatak (about a half-hour drive from places like Mád and Tokaj). Don’t be surprised if Slavic chatter drifts from the surrounding tables – many customers here come from Slovakia, across the nearby border. The fisherman’s soup (halászlé) and the baked cottage cheese noodles drizzled with pork cracklings (túróscsusza) are both good. As many others, round out your meal with a shot of pálinka, the local fruit brandy.
#8 - LaBor Bistro (Tokaj; +36 70 883 8888)
LaBor is a higher end restaurant right on Tokaj’s main square. The short menu consists of beautifully plated Hungarian classics including mangalica pork and lecsó, prepared with small twists and turns. The wine list, naturally, features the celebrated winemakers of the town, including Zoltán Demeter and Gizella.
#9 - Anyukám Mondta (Encs; +36 46 587 340)
This Italian-Hungarian restaurant in Encs has a cult following, drawing discerning eaters to this faraway corner of Hungary. The reputation might be slightly inflated, but the place serves excellent Naples-style pizzas and a range of beautifully plated meat-heavy dishes such as the braised rooster cooked in Tokaj wine. Anyukám Mondta is located a half-hour drive from the wine region and advance booking is a must. €15-20 mains.
#10 - Timári Halsütő (Timár; +36 30 388 2658)
This outdoor-only fish restaurant is well-worth the ten-minute drive from the city of Tokaj. The specialty here is whole fried fish, be it pikeperch, catfish, or carp. The place is out of sight of civilization, nestled along the Bodrog river and surrounded by nature. Be sure to also order a side of fries, which are hand cut and made to order. Open only during the outdoor season, usually from March to October.