The Offbeat Guide To The Tokaj Wine Region

Wine tastings, scenic hiking trails, and royal-residences-turned-boutique-hotels are a few highlights of the world-famous Tokaj wine region. With some advance planning, you can spend a couple of eventful days in this idyllic swath of northeastern Hungary.

If you’re already in Budapest and at least a little bit interested in wine, I recommend that you take the two-and-a-half-hour trip and discover Tokaj first-hand. Hungary’s most famous wine region and a Unesco World Heritage Site, Tokaj, consists of hundreds of wineries that are scattered throughout the 27 villages that dot the area. For centuries, these medieval villages and picturesque rolling vineyards supplied emperors, kings, and presidents with precious aszú wines. Following a decline in the communist era, Tokaj is now springing back to life, fueled by an ambitious generation of winemakers.

Unlike other historic wine regions, Tokaj is at present largely tourist free and highly accessible. Use this guide, based on my multiple extended visits and dozens of interviews with experts and winemakers, to optimize your Tokaj trip.


Frequently Asked Questions: know before you go

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Photo: Royal Tokaji

What’s the best way to reach Tokaj from Budapest? What cities should I go to? What kind of grapes grow in Tokaj? Does Tokaj also make dry wines? Can I actually buy wines there? A little advance planning will go a long way. Start your immersion into the wine region by reading our answers to questions people most commonly ask.


The most important: visiting wineries

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You should plan your Tokaj trip around winery visits and tastings. Some wineries offer a chance to go inside their labyrinthine medieval wine cellars. At others, the head winemakers themselves run the tastings—personally, I most enjoy wines when I can attach a face to the label.


If you need a break from wines

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Although wine is the heart of the region, there are also other things to do, like hiking up to a scenic lookout point, walking around Tokaj’s old city, going inside the medieval churches that anchor many villages, or visiting the dazzling Baroque synagogue in Mád.


The best restaurants

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The wine region’s restaurant scene has a way to go, but these six places will not leave you disappointed. They feature everything from homestyle traditional Hungarian fare to freshly fried whole catfish with hand-cut potatoes, and Mangalitsa pork. The wines, naturally, consist of local labels.


The most memorable hotels

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Photo: Barta Winery

Each of Tokaj’s most visited villages (Mád, Tarcal, Tállya, Erdőbénye) has a couple of low-priced bed-and-breakfasts, but there are also a few elegant accommodations, which include a Baroque estate that’s been transformed into a boutique hotel, offering three lavish suites. See if any strike your fancy.

This guide is based on multiple extended visits to Tokaj and dozens of interviews conducted with local winemakers and leading Budapest sommeliers.